August 10th: Roncevalles — I thought I was going to die.

I thought a mountain pass was a low valley between two mountain peaks. Not all that low, actually.  I considered stopping and staying at the first albergue at Orrison, but a couple of teenaged girls sprinted past me, and turned to say “Hey senor, esta bien?” Their kindness pissed me off so much that I resolved to make it all the way to Roncevalles. This so-called mountain pass climbs to 1400 meters, about 4600 feet, then drops steeply to 900 meters. It is a place of cattle, sheep, horses, oak and beech trees, and transcendent beauty.

I dragged my sorry body into Roncevalles at 7 PM, after 12 hours of walking, and saw 60 steps leading up to the albergue door, a cruel joke.

Three middle aged Irish ladies I’d met in St. Jean were there, already changed into their cocktail dresses. They told me that they had arrived at 1 PM, and were planning to stay in Pamplona the next night, about 50 kilometers down the Camino.   My goal was to reach Pamplona on Friday. Can I  walk to Santiago?  I don’t know. 

I was lucky to get a bed in a room with forty beds.  I had brought the recommended earplugs, but I didn’t need them.

9 thoughts on “August 10th: Roncevalles — I thought I was going to die.”

  1. Chris, I’m enjoying your posts, and had a small chuckle at the cruel joke. Stay safe…
    Go at your own pace no one else’s.

    Helga Gregory
    Senior Project Controls | Project Manager

    Arup
    77 Water Street New York NY 10005 USA
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  2. No wonder! 12 hours of walking!!! I would need blister pads. How many kilometers can you typically cover in an hour of mixed level surfaces?

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  3. Thank you for your honest account of your journey. I know that this journey is important and also know that you will be able to endure ‘The Agony and the Ecstasy’. If El Camino takes longer than planned….do not despair.

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  4. Chris – yesterday, I completed my fifth morning walk of my “new regime”: a 4 mile walk along the beach. ” let’s see ” I thought, ” that makes 20 miles! “. And then I thought, oh my God, that’s what Chris hopes to do a day…

    God bless you, and keep it up!

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  5. Tienes varios días caminando por el país Vasco. Disfruta del trato con los vascos. ¡Son muy buena gente! La comida local, estupenda.

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  6. blog 2

    On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 5:13 PM, My Camino with Toni wrote:

    > Chris Wilson posted: “I thought a mountain pass was a low valley between > two mountain peaks. Not all that low, actually. I considered stopping and > staying at the first albergue at Orrison, but a couple of teenaged girls > sprinted past me, and turned to say “Hey senor, est” >

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