I was thankful to have missed the festival of San Fermin in Pamplona, the Running of the Bulls, which turns that city into an international spectacle every July, and equally thankful to witness the same festival in the smaller Basque town of Los Arcos. Here the Running of the Bulls took on the character of a small town celebration.
Abuelas and nietos watched from balcony windows as the young men of the town, alcohol fueled, with white costumes, red bandanas and punk haircuts, took turns demonstrating their fearlessness. On another street small boys were running with the calves.
Toni was always more adventurous than I. Whether she was climbing the pyramids at Coba, Ek Balaam and Chichen Itza, zip lining in Puerto Vallarta, or sky diving in Playa, I felt it my duty to stay on the ground, and document her adventures.
Twenty years ago Toni and I went to a bullfight in the Roman amphitheater in Arles. In the Provencal bullfight, matadors try to snatch a cockade off the horns of the bull. They don’t kill the bull, they just annoy the hell out it. “How French!” observed our friend Kathy Boone.
We went south into the Camargue, where they were raising bulls for the fight. Young bull calves were being chased down, roped and branded. We were offered the opportunity to run after them. I said “no, thank you.” Toni took off after the bulls. In a moment that seemed to define our relationship, I ran after her breathlessly. “Toni, Toni, do you think this is a good idea?”
My Camino with Toni 
Priceless.
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I remember in Spanish class I had students write 5 things on the blackboard (very low tech, I know) 3 that were true and 2 that were made up. One of Toni’s was “running with bulls”, which none of the students thought was true. This was the day that one of the students remarked that she wanted to be like Toni when she grew up.
Don’t we all.
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Oh, Chris. I never realized how fearless Toni was! Goodness! Still with you.
R
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I was just kidding about France. Sort of.
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Sweet memory!
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Chris, we think you are pretty fearless, too. Walking the El Camino is quite an undertaking. Toni would be so proud of you.
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Great stories, Chris! I’m really enjoying these posts.
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Chris: We are with you. At times I feel I am back in my Medieval Art and Culture
course in college, an eye opening for a Bronx guy. Thanks. Keep on posting.
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Dad, I’m trying to follow you on this adventure, and soon I literally will follow you. I emailed you too but maybe this is the best way to message? I love you!
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I remember Toni telling me that she had run with the bulls. It was not a good idea, but one only regrets the things one doesn’t do!
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Chris, We are closely following your commentaries. They are so vivid. We also saw the film “The Way” about a personal journey on el camino de compestela . Between the imagery of the movie and your reports we feel like we are vicariously experiencing it along with you. We look forward to hearing more of your journey.
Art and Enid
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