I get to Boadillo. My heel is no worse, no better. I ponder whether a day of rest will help.
Until yesterday, I have had a charmed Camino. I have watched my younger, sometimes much younger, friends suffer from blisters, twisted ankles, and bad knees, but not me. And, yes, I have been a bit cocky.
Stopping at a bar, I meet Danny from Nashville, whom I met two days earlier in Tardejos. Danny is a hale fellow well met, a proud Tennessean, a Christian. He and I enjoy some Sopa Castellano, wonderful garlic soup. My heel feels tolerable.
We start walking toward Fromista, walking slowly, carefully. About a half a kilometer outside town, in an instant, I find myself face down on the ground in a puddle of blood. I don’t know how I got there. I don’t remember tripping. I am surrounded by angels. A nurse from Korea is only steps behind me when I fall. She and Danny kneel over me, concerned, caring for me.
They walk me back to the last albergue in Boadillo, supporting my weight and carrying my backpack. At the albergue an Italian peregrina, who looks way too young, identifies herself as a doctor. Another peregrina is, I think, a physician assistant. Together with the Korean nurse, they patiently and painstakingly clean the gravel from my wounds.
Their ministrations seem to me as expert as anybody could hope for, but, moreover, filled with the spirit of the Camino.
In the meantime Danny and Ana, angel of the Camino, peregrina from Madrid, arrange for a taxi to take me to the consultario in Fromista. Ana comes to translate, Danny because he is his brother’s keeper.
At the consultario I am tended to and bandaged. I get four butterfly closures, covered with gauze and tape. I ask whether I will lose all my teeth. I wonder if both my hands are broken. They assure me, through Ana, that I will be fine. To believe that at this moment requires some faith. I look like Frankenstein’s monster. Ana goes to the Farmacia for me and brings back prescriptions for my mouth, and for inflammation.
(Ana, not incidentally, turns out to be an impressive young woman, who has worked for years at the Palais des Beaux Artes in Mexico City, and now works at the famous classical theatre in Madrid, home of the works of Lope de Vega. And she has given up a day of her Camino for me.)
Dear reader, before I close, let me say, I will be fine within a week. My wounds will heal. But already, I have a good story, better than a bruised heel or a couple of lousy blisters.
At the albergue, I think people are avoiding me, not wanting to ask what has befallen me, and I cannot blame them. But a young Spanish woman approaches me. She seems genuinely agitated. “Would you be open to a spiritual message?” she asks me. I’m a bit sceptical, but nod assent.
“I have a message from a woman, maybe your partner, maybe your wife. She says to tell you she loves you, and she is proud of what you are doing.”
My Camino with Toni 
You are in our prayers
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I tf
Thank you, but I feel a bit guilty to elicit that much sympathy. I’ll be fine. I’m walking again already.
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Thank you Chris – I’m deeply moved.
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Ahhhhhh, yes, yes she does and yes she is. Be healed by that and some rest time.
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Chris,
It’s been a good story all along, but indeed it is getting better. Good wishes for rapid healing of wounds.
Chuck
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Oh my. In tears.
Well wishes. Stay upright.
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The caretaker gets care-taken. Sending my love.
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You are amazing; feel better; continue your walk. This is such a moving tribute to a truly great lady.
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Wonderful – keep going!
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Chris, Lon and I have been “with” you as you progress across northern Spain and love your accounts of the Camino. Our hearts are with you and hope your wounds will quickly heal.
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Chris, I have been following your progress and I have to tell you this post brought tears to my eyes. I wish you a quick healing and am sending you good thoughts. I think you’re amazing, and I know Toni is with you and beyond proud! Carry on good man, carry on! 🙂
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Chris, You have such a sense of graciousness & sense of perspective. What an amazing mix of fellow peregrinos that were there at the time to help you, too. Prayers in your direction.
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There are tears in my eyes. That woman speaks the truth. Wow. I’m so enjoying this Chris. Please take care of yourself. xo
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Somehow this made me think of Toni’s “fail gloriously”. This sure makes a better story than a bruised heel and you have turned it into an adventure that captures the spirit of the Camino. Sending much love from me and Jonathan.
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Oh dear, sorry to read about the ‘faceplant’ but how wonderful to read about the people who helped you. Just the right qualifications to deal with wound clean up and medicating, and their willingness to alter plans for their own travels to be with you and make sure you were OK is so nice.
As I anticipated I am finding the little snippets about all the people you are meeting so interesting, how some of them are a one off meeting, while others weave in and out of your journey repeatedly. For some reason especially moved by your attempt to make contact with Andreas, who evoked such a strong ‘stay away’ vibe initially.
Really enjoying reading of your travels, thanks for making the time to keep us updated
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Hi, Chris,
Glad to know that you found such good help in your time of need. Remember, wound healing is a biological miracle.
Thank you much for keeping us informed. Don Shedd
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hi Chris! Happy you’re on the mend. I am at my parents’ house and this morning I shared with them the many testimonials from Toni’s facebook page. They send their well wishes on your journey!
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Oh Chris, be well. I can see it is a hard trip physically and emotionally. Many are with you and of course, Toni, beside you. You have already succeeded in so many ways. With you all the way, Roz
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Wow! What can I say? It appears you are in very good hands, and in good spirits to it appears. Your adventure now appears to have incorporated all facets of the Camino, I just hope your timeframe allows you to finish.
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walk on walk man . . .
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Chris, This is really a great story and you’re writing this without even dropping acid!!! Jack Kerouac (Tom Wolfe?) would have been proud/envious. And most importantly, Toni would have loved this hero’s journey. Press on Odysseus!
Enid and I send our love and admiration.
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Chris, Your writing ability makes me feel completely present to the experience, as if I were there in the moment. Such a pleasure. Wonderful storytelling!
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Sending you lots of love, with tears in my eyes.
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Oh Chris, just when you’re in this terrible fix, Toni comes through to buck you up! Blessings, my friend. Rest, rest and let yourself mend.
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